Our Route
We completed the trip as a lollipop beginning at the South Fork Teton Trailhead. Rather than taking the more common approach, we chose this route because it crosses Montana’s Rocky Mountain Front before entering the heart of the wilderness. It does add another mountain pass and some extra elevation gain, but we thought the scenery was worth it.
We had originally considered hiking Moose Ridge as well, but decided to skip it before reaching the junction. After passing the turnoff, it looked like significant downfall was blocking much of the trail, so we felt pretty good about our decision.
There were far more horses than hikers
One of the first things we noticed was how many people explored the Bob Marshall on horseback. We expected to see backpackers throughout the trip, but most of the trail traffic consisted of horse riding outfitter groups. It makes sense considering the distances involved, but was still surprising to us. If it’s your first time hiking in horse country, remember that hikers should always yield to horses.
The largest concentration of foot traffic we saw during the entire trip was around the Chinese Wall itself. Even then, it never felt crowded.
We never saw a single bear
This was probably our biggest surprise. Before visiting, we’d heard plenty of stories about the Bob Marshall’s grizzly population. We carried bear spray, stored food properly, and expected to see at least one bear, even if in the distance. Instead…nothing. Not even a black bear.
That doesn’t mean you should expect the same experience. Every trip is different, and this is absolutely grizzly country. Come prepared, know how to safely store food, carry bear spray, and understand how to respond if you do encounter wildlife.
The Legend of the Grizzly Toad
On our first evening, Valerie wandered away from camp to photograph the fading twilight when she heard what sounded like a deep bear grunt somewhere in the trees. Running back to the tent everyone got ready for the encounter we had been anticipating. After hearing it periodically for a few minutes without a bear emerging, we decided it likely wasn’t a bear.
After eliminating every explanation we could think of, we jokingly decided the Bob Marshall Wilderness must be home to grizzly toads: a completely fictional species that apparently grunts like a bear.
It wasn’t until we got back into cell service that we discovered the real culprit: a Common Nighthawk. When a nighthawk dives, air rushing through the bird’s wings creates a surprisingly deep booming sound. As the light was fading, with bears already on the mind, it’s remarkably convincing.
We may not have seen any bears, but the “grizzly toad” gave us a defining memory from the trip.
We Had Long Stretches of Trail to Ourselves
We were surprised by how quiet the trail felt to and from the Chinese Wall. Given that it’s one of the Bob Marshall Wilderness’s most popular backpacking destinations, we expected to see more hikers along the way. Instead, we only encountered three other hiking groups and often had long stretches of trail entirely to ourselves.
The busiest area was around the Chinese Wall itself, but even there it never felt crowded. Our experience may have been influenced by the route we chose, which is less popular than some of the more direct approaches.
